Category: Old Blog

  • Working With Solids

    Working with perfumery requires using various techniques, and one that we face early on is working with solid materials.  I see people often posting in perfumery forums about this very subject, because it can be quite daunting. However, it is actually not as difficult as it seems.  When I started on my perfumery journey, I was originally puzzled as to how to dissolve solids.  Since some people posting in the forums seemed to dilute their solids, yet I had formulas requiring these materials at 100%, it only added to the confusion.

    This brings me, briefly, to the subject of dilution of your perfumery materials.  One of the myths perpetuated is that you have to dilute all your materials to 10%.  This is not necessarily accurate, nor does it work for everyone.  While some like to do this to learn how specific materials smell in diluted form, I never subscribed to this method. I tend to be practical, and the thought of having every single material diluted to 10% alongside full-strength versions was out of the question for me, especially because many materials will never be used in a 10% dilution. Materials such as Hedione, Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA), Lavender and Bergamot are some I have never used diluted.  Now that I have over 700 materials, I am very thankful I opted not to go that route!  Scent strips work for me if I want to sample a material in various stages of drydown.  In the beginning of your perfumery journey, it can be all too easy to follow someone else’s path, which in the end may not suit you.  Eventually, the best way to work with perfumery is the way that works best for you, and ‘right’ and ‘wrong’ can be subjective, but there are some tried and tested methods that work for most.

    I know several perfumers, none who dilute their materials except those that need it due to scent strength (such as Aldehydes).  Over time, one learns what materials need dilution and which ones are generally used at 100%.  Some materials such as aldehydes, civet, ribes mercaptan, cis-3-hexenol, are extremely strong, requiring only trace amounts in a formula.  To incorporate them into a formula in such small amounts, we generally dilute these materials into a 50%, 10% or 1% strength dilution.  A much larger number of perfumery materials are generally used at 100%.  However, that is a subject for a whole other post. On this particular post I’d like to go back to discussing solid materials and why dilution of these materials is not usually necessary, unless needed due to scent strength.

    Musk Ketone

    While many materials used by a perfumer come in liquid form, you will quickly encounter solid materials.  Materials such as Musk Ketone, Calone, Ambroxan, Tonalide, Cedrol, Benzophenone, to name a few, are usually sold in powder, crystalline or even ‘rock’ form. You will also find some materials like Cinnamic Alcohol and Guaiacwood, which turn into a waxy solid at room temperature.  These are materials that turn back to liquid form with gentle heating.  Other materials such as Benzyl Cinnamate and Terpineol can be quite solid, but will also revert to liquid form upon heating. Some materials sold in powder form or small crystalline form are Musk Ketone, coumarin, vanillin and ethyl vanillin.

    Suppliers tend to sell some of these materials in both solid and diluted form. Ambroxan is such an example, sold in solid form and also at 40% dilution, but I do not usually like to buy materials diluted because at one point or another you will need to use a material in its full-strength form; even materials as strong as aldehydes.  If at any point I need to dilute them, I prefer to do it myself.  If you do choose to buy some materials diluted, make sure you also have the material in its full-strength form.  Ambroxan is a good example, because it is difficult to dilute, so it is one that I have purchased both in solid and diluted forms.

    The issue with some materials, like aldehydes or Bitter Almond Oil (which is 99% Benzaldehyde), is that they oxidize quickly, so diluting them in perfumer’s alcohol and storing them in a refrigerator will help them last much longer.  There are some materials that, while not needing dilution, will need refrigeration to last longer.  I will cover this more in depth on another post, but materials such as the aforementioned aldehydes, or citrus oils such as lemon, orange, bergamot, need refrigeration.

    Solid perfumery materials have various specific points at which they will dissolve and this can be extremely confusing unless you’re a chemist.  I am not a chemist and at some point, I drew the line as to how far I wanted to get into scientific specifics.  Discussions with others who were perfumers or learning the craft gave me some useful hints, but ultimately trial and error was what taught me how to work with solids.

    Some materials will not dissolve in alcohol, but will dissolve in dipropylene glycol (DPG/DIPG), Isopropyl Myristate (IPM), Benzyl Benzoate, etc.  Again, it all goes back to chemistry. Knowing some chemistry might save you the trouble of the ‘hit or miss’ method.  If you’re so inclined, I certainly encourage it.  Some materials will need heating to dilute into your base, while others will not even budge with heating.  Since I generally work with perfumer’s alcohol as my perfume base, it is my go-to for dissolving tough solids when I need to.  Some things like vanillin, however, did not dissolve in alcohol, so alternatives like DPG or IPM worked best.  Sometimes heating will encourage a solid to dissolve once in a base.  But, let me go back to using solid materials at full strength.

    Since I mentioned using materials at 100%, you may wonder how I would do that with solids, as this would mean not dissolving them at all before adding them to my mix.  The answer to that lies in what I mentioned before, about materials having different points at which they will dissolve.  When you create a perfume base, you’re mixing many molecules, all with different dissolution points.  When you have them all together, they become a perfect base in which a solid will dissolve. I am yet to find a solid that has not dissolved in my perfume mixture. I am sure there are, I just have not dealt with them yet in my six years of doing this.  Even Ambroxan, otherwise difficult to dissolve, will dissolve in a perfume blend.  I simply add the solids to my formula and I have yet to encounter materials that, given a day or so, will not fully dissolve into the blend.  The other molecules make sure of it.  The key is being able to get the solid in an easier to use form, such as a powder, so that you can then add it to your formula.

    Clay Sculpting Tools

    For some materials that will not liquify upon heating, or of which I need a small amount so I do not want to bother heating, I use small clay sculpting tools.  These can be used to scrape, prod and puncture materials so that I can create small amounts of crystals or powder I can then scoop up and add to my blend. I clean these tools after each use with inexpensive vodka that I keep in a spray bottle by my work desk. You want to make sure not to cross-contaminate your materials by dipping the tool from one to another without cleaning them first.

    I am still getting around to finding a tiny spoon to scoop the materials with, so I continue to use a paper scent strip to do it. I simply fold the paper strip long-side to create a channel. I then use that to scoop the material and slide it into the bottle on my scale in which I am blending the perfume compound. This works especially well for crystalline or powder materials like Musk Ketone or Coumarin. I know some perfumers who also use this simple method.  A toothpick sometimes helps encourage the material to slide down from my ‘paper strip scoop’ down into the bottle. Materials like Cinnamic Alcohol, which solidify into a waxy solid, I can scoop with a clay sculpting tool when I need a small amount and I do not want to heat it up. For larger amounts, I will heat the material into liquid form.

    Tonalide ‘pebbles’

    Other materials like Tonalide come in tiny ‘pebbles.’  I simply pick these with a tiny tweezer or my fingers, and add them to the blend one at a time, until I reach the desired weight on my scale.  However, I would recommend care when handing perfumery materials with your bare hands.  Some will sting or cause a rash when pure and undiluted.  While some people wear gloves when they work with perfumery, I cannot work well with them on, so I do not.  But you also do not want to be handling these materials and then touching your eyes or face by accident — this has been known to happen.  I always recommend washing your hands thoroughly after working with perfumery.  I suggest adding liquid soap to your hands before using water.  This is because most perfumery materials are not water soluble and if you add water first, you are only making sure the materials will spread and not wash off.  Once you worked the liquid soap evenly over your hands, then add water and wash normally.

    Once the solids are added to the blend, swirling (not shaking) will encourage dissolution.  Materials like Cetalox or Coumarin will spin around, seemingly not willing to dissolve.  In a few hours or by the next day, you will see them completely dissolved into your mix.  Some more swirling works.

    When it comes to solids like Alpha Terpineol or Cinnamic Alcohol, which easily turn back to liquid form with heating, I simply use hot water to do the job.  Using a kettle (I prefer an electric one, which is quick), boil some water.  Once the water is hot, add some into a glass Pyrex measuring cup and add cold tap water to reach a temperature that is still very hot, but not scolding.  Insert the capped bottle with your perfume material into the water and then adjust the water to cover ¾ of the bottle, but keeping the water away from the top.  You want to make sure you leave at least ¼ inch or more from the top of the bottle, as you do not want any risk of getting water into your material. Again, the bottle containing your perfume material should be capped.  If water gets into the bottle, it will ruin your material.  Honestly, with a little care, this never need happen.  In my six years of working with perfumery, it has never happened to me.  Just be careful.  Of course, now that I wrote this, watch it happen next time I do this!

    I generally like to set up my solid materials that need liquifying in a hot water bath when I start mixing a formula, to save time. Once I have all my bottles lined up in order before me on my work desk, I take the ones that need heating, put them in their water bath and leave them there until I am ready for them. I will then go ahead and mix all my other materials and, at the end, retrieve the other materials from their water bath.  By then they are already in their liquid form and ready for use.  If any of these materials that I heated up is normally refrigerated, I will let it return to room temperature before putting them in the refrigerator, to avoid condensation inside the bottle.  As a rule, it is never a good idea to go directly from cold to hot or vice-versa.

    Some materials are rather viscous.  Undiluted Galaxolide or Benzoin come to mind as well as some absolutes like tobacco or violet leaf.  They’re thick, viscous and are not easy to work with undiluted, but there are times in which you’ll need them at full strength.  Taking Galaxolide as an example, I generally will let it pour, slowly, into my mix.  Heating slightly beforehand will help it flow more smoothly. Once it starts flowing into the bottle in which I am blending my formula, I use the tip of a small plastic pipette to control the flow.  I juggle staring at the weight on the scale and the bottle the material is pouring out of.  It takes practice. As I get close to the amount I need, I quickly make sure to slow the pouring to a bare trickle and then, using the tip of the pipette, I stop the flow when I reach the right weight I need.  Needless to say, materials like Galaxolide and Benzoin are often used at 50% dilution to make the job easier, but I have also used them undiluted.  When adding these types of undiluted materials to your blend, it is not uncommon to see them sink to the bottom of your bottle and sit there, in a puddle, even as you swirl.  Within a few hours or a day, you will see them fully dissolved.  Swirling your bottle gently, every so often, helps speed up the process.

    Since I mentioned above how I like to work, and I cover this extensively in my Creating page, I figured I would briefly explain that here.  For a detailed explanation, please see my other page.  I generally will spend much time doing research before I put together a formula, then I write it on a specially designed sheet (see my Creating page).  Once I have the formula all laid out, I go to the room in which I keep all my perfumery materials and retrieve the ones I need. I do not keep these materials in the same room in which I work, because the scent of the materials is overwhelming and interferes with my work.

    I have a tray that I use specifically for my work.  I gather all the materials I need and put them on my tray and then take it into my work space.  I then line up the bottles of materials before me on my desk, in the order I have them listed on my formula sheet.  This helps me from wasting time trying to find each material as I work, and also makes sure I do not pick up the wrong one by mistake.  I will always double check the material in my hand with what is on my formula sheet. I also triple check the amount I am supposed to add to the bottle on the scale.  Once I am done adding each material into the bottle, it goes back on the tray. In this way, in the rare case that I am interrupted I will not have to second guess whether I already added the material or not.  If you mess this up, you have to start from scratch. Any doubt at all as to whether you added the material or not and your work is over and you have to start again.  So, you can see how the tray helps tremendously. If a material is back on the tray, that tells me I am done with it.  Focus is imperative once you start blending a formula.

    I hope this post helps make your working with solid perfumery materials more enjoyable.  If you’re just starting out, try to blend your materials as I mentioned, directly into your formula.  I am sure you will never look back.

  • The Complexity of Aroma Families

    The world of aroma – chemicals can be overwhelming, especially when you’re faced with hundreds of these scents. Organization from the start is imperative. You can quickly get overtaken by aroma – chemicals and essential oils if you do not get squared away from the beginning. In this page, I hope to help you set up your aroma – chemicals and essential oils in a way that will allow you to quickly work with them.

    The world of aroma families is complicated, because not everyone shares the same organization method. Some families are more obvious and shared by all, such as Floral, Green, Amber. Others get tricky, like Earthy, Mossy and Ethereal. I mean, what’s an ethereal scent?

    Color – Coded Bottles for Organization

    Color coded bottles, by family

    So, I simply followed the lists and similar colors as used by the perfume houses Givaudan and Firmenich, then adjusted to my own needs. The list below will give you the aroma family names and colors I have applied to my own list, which is then how I set up my database. A life saver! As you can see in the image on the left, bottles are organized by aroma family AND their respective colors. Each color on the top of a bottle represents their aroma family. When you have several hundred aroma – chemicals and essential oils, you want to be able to figure out what’s where. The database I spoke of in the Setup page, coupled with the color labels, help you do just that. Below, I will show you how to divide your database.

    Database Overview

    I cannot really go into how to create a database, but can tell you what mine looks like, so that you can reproduce it. I use Zoho for my on – line database, and creating a database there is fairly easy though it takes some figuring out.

    A database consists of fields. These are the areas that will allow you to enter information. Each field is given a name. When you create your perfumery database, you may start wondering what fields you need. I did a lot of research in the beginning, until I came up with what suited my needs. Below is a list of the fields on my database (I left out a couple that I did not think would be useful to anyone else but me), and I hope this will help you when setting up yours. Below you will find a downloadable PDF with my database, as a sample. Databases keep growing, so this PDF may not reflect my current database, but it does not matter as I am using it for you to see how it works. You can use that for guidance, but I thoroughly recommend you create your own.

    Database Fields

    – Image: This helps you quickly identify the kind of element you’re dealing with. If you have an image of a rose, you know immediately this aroma – chemical is part of a rose scent. Pheny Ethyl Alcohol is an example of an aroma – 0chemicals that would use a Rose for image.

    – Name: This is the name of the aroma material.

    – CAS#: This is a unique numerical identifier assigned by the Chemical Abstracts Service to every chemical substance including organic and inorganic compounds, minerals, isotopes, alloys and non – structurable materials. This number is important to you for various reasons. The main one for you as a perfumery student is that some aroma – chemicals go by different names, depending on who distributes them. It can become overwhelming and you may end up buying the same material a few times over with different names. By checking the CAS# against your database, you can immediately verify you do not already own this material by another name. Another good reason to have this in your database is so that it can make looking up the correct material on – line a quick and easy thing and you’ll always be certain you located the correct one.

    – Manufacturer: This is important, because you want to know who created it, if it’s available. Perfume houses such as Givaudan, IFF, Firmenich, Takasago, Symrise, Robertet, release their own aroma – chemicals and essential oils, and knowing where it came from can also determine the scent. If you used a Givaudan material for one perfume, when you use it again, you want to make sure it is the same. A specialty essential oil from Robertet may not smell the same as one from another supplier.

    – Supplier: This field is important because not all suppliers carry every aroma – chemical or essential oil. Sometimes, though, a supplier may no longer carry one you bought from them in the past. Still, it helps knowing where to go get it again when you need to reorder.

    – A.K.A: Just about every aroma – chemical has a couple of names it goes by. This field will help you by adding the other names you can find it as. So, when you’re following a formula and think you do not have that particular aroma – chemical called for, it usually turns out you DO have it, under a different name. Ambromax is also Ambrofix. Cinnamaldehyde is also Cinnamic Aldehyde. You can see how it can get complicated without a cross – reference database…. This will also help you reduce your spending so that you do not end up with the same material by three different names. This field works well alongside the CAS# field (see above).

    – Primary Type: This is the primary Aroma Family you’ll find this aroma – chemical or essential oil under.

    – Secondary Type: Generally, an aroma – chemical will not smell like just one thing. The more immediate descriptions you have at your fingertips, the easier things work. This helps you greatly when, for example, working with Musks. All Musks are Musky, but they can also be flowery, powdery, herbal…. So, if your Primary Type was MUSK, the Secondary can then be Powdery.

    – Tertiary Type: Because most aroma – chemicals and essential oils do not smell like just one or two things, a tertiary type helps you zone deeper into specific elements you may want for your perfume. In the MUSK example, your secondary type can be POWDERY, but the tertiary type could also be WOODY. The Musk Ethyl Brassilate, for example, would fit all these three definitions: MUSK, POWDERY, WOODY.

    Drop – Down Menu for Aroma Types

    Below is a table with each type, and the drop down menu terms I created for each. As you can see, Type 2 expands on Type 1, and Type 3 expands even further, giving you ample choices of scent. Because you create a drop down menu for each type, when you fill in your materials into the database, you do not have to keep typing family names. You simply use the drop down menu and select the aroma type. The drop down menus (and any other data field) can be edited at any time, so as you become more adept, you may want to change things to suit your working style.

     

    Note Field

    Note – This field is about what note the material is. Perfumery scents, like Aromatherapy, are divided into TOP, MIDDLE and BASE notes. Most aroma – chemicals and essential oils will fit into one note, but sometimes you will see ones that can fit into two. Rarely have I seen all three in one material. So, I created TWO drop down menus: one is NOTE and the other is SECONDARY NOTE. Make sure each of the two drop down menus has all notes available to choose from: TOP, MIDDLE, BASE.

    Use Field

    Use – This is the description of what the aroma – chemical or essential oil is used for. Put as much information as you can find in here, because it will later help you decide when looking for a specific scent. For example, if you’re looking for an aroma – chemical used in the creation of a Lilac base, you will find that in the USE description.

    Characteristics Field

    Characteristics – This field describes the character of the aroma – chemical or essential oil. Usually it describes what the aromatic element smells like.

    Odor Strength Field

    Odor Strength – This one is important. Some aroma – chemicals and essential oils are low or medium in scent strength, but others, especially with aroma – chemicals, can be very strong. You’ll eventually learn what’s what, but in the beginning you want to know ahead of time that the Indole you’re using will kill your blend if you use more than a trace amount. Some aroma – chemicals have to be diluted down to 10% and some even to 1%, because that is how powerful they are. Aldehydes are such a case.

    Use % Field

    Use % – When you purchase an aroma – chemical or oil, you can find out the percentage that the material is usually used as. For example, Aldehyde C – 11 you can see that the Recommended Usage Level is 1.0% in the fragrance concentrate.

    IFRA Restrictions Field

    IFRA Restricitons – This field is generally for those items that are restricted by IFRA, like Oakmoss, Coumarin or Bergamot. If you eventually start running your own business and want to sell your creations, you may want to know this. Some niche perfumers do not care. I created this field using two boxes, a YES and a NO. I click on it if I know that there are restrictions, but personally, I could care less what IFRA has to say…and I am not the only one! That is a long story I wont’ get into…. Also keep in mind that IFRA restrictions have nothing to do with your country’s cosmetic product restrictions. THAT one you have to pay attention to.

    Longevity Field

    Longevity – This lets you know how long the aroma – chemical or oil lasts on a blotter (perfume smelling strip). This is good to know because you want a perfume to last and want some of the ingredients to make that happen. Lemon, for example, can last only a couple of hours on a blotter, while Musks can last for days. A Rose perfume I created is still lovely on the perfume strip, three days later.

    Appearance Field

    Appearance – This lets you know if the material you’re planning on using will have any color or if it is clear. I generally do not care, but some materials will be dark green, such as Violet Leaf Absolute, or dark brown such as Labdanum or Oakmoss. This will affect your final product. Personally, I love when a perfume I created looks yellow, gold, amber or dark amber in the bottle. Most of your perfumes will take on similar hues as do the professional ones you purchase.

    Shelf Life Field

    Shelf Life – This lets you know how long your material will generally be good for. Most will last well over 36 months if kept in a dark, cool place. Some require refrigeration. Some, however, will oxidize relatively quickly, like Aldehydes, and it is best to keep them diluted in alcohol and then refrigerate these to extend their life. It is good to get to know this from the start and refrigerate those oils and aroma – chemicals that need it rather than later find out they’ve ‘gone off.’

    Storage Field

    Storage – This is a drop down menu with two fields: REGULAR and REFRIGERATOR. This will let you know where to find your material so you do not spend an hour looking through your aroma – chemicals without finding what you’re after, when all along it was in the refrigerator.

    Stability Field

    Stability – You can add this field if you’re interested in knowing how your material reacts in various bases like gels, alcohol, laundry detergent, etc. I do not use it a lot, but it is good to have.

  • Thinking Like A Perfumer: A Rose By Any Other Name

    The Alluring Description of a Perfume

    A perfume I loved from a few years ago was described as: “….captures the sights and scents of the Scottish countryside. This charmingly distinctive fragrance combines top notes of meadow grasses and bergamot, with refreshing mid – notes of heather, bluebell and violet to recreate the scents of a high – land retreat… Base notes of leather and oak add an extra warmth….” It almost reads like a passage out of a Victorian novel. It makes me believe it! When creating perfume, one could quickly start wondering where to go and get ‘bluebell’ essential oil absolute or a similarly named aroma – chemical. The problem is, there are none. Bluebell is what is termed a fantasy scent.

    The Deception in Perfume Marketing

    I figured this would be the theme of my second post, because it is one of the baffling things to discover in perfumery. Reading descriptions of favorite perfumes is like taking a master course in marketing deception. At a time when many perfume companies are trying to make their perfumes cheaper while at the same time dealing with ever – increasing, restrictive IFRA regulations, the more embellished the marketing, the better.

    In the scent described above, there are no bluebells, heather or leather, but rather massive overdoses of Iso E Super, Bergamot, Hedione, Oakmoss and Patchouli, with a bunch of other things thrown in for good measure. But looking at the description of those aromatic materials, one could almost believe the perfume marketing. Iso E Super (also known as patchouli ethanone) is often described as a “Smooth, warm, woody, slightly leathery, amber note.” So, there’s the ‘oak’ in there and the ‘leather,’ and we could even add ‘Amber’ to the mix.

    The Creativity of a Perfumer

    This is where the fun begins for a perfumer creating a scent. I just created a lovely Rose perfume. It is an ‘Island Rose’ of sorts. Just for fun, let me describe it as, “The scent of a lovely, seashore rose with hints of delicate apricot, velvety blond woods and summery green winds….” The catch is, there is no actual Rose oil in it – or green winds, whatever that is! None. And yet, one whiff and the beautiful Roses are right there. Aroma materials like Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Geraniol and Nerol, all found in Rose, can easily stand in for the real thing. For the seashore, I could add some marine or ozonic aroma – chemicals like Calone or Helional, for outdoor effects some Precyclemone B, blond woods could be Cashmeran, and so on. So, I guess you could say that a Rose By Any Other Name could be called Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol….or anything else, and still smell as sweet.

    The Reality in Product Marketing

    Recently, a hairdresser I know showed me a new shampoo he was using. He loved that it had ‘Jasmine’ in it. It pained me to burst the bubble, but I had to tell him there was no real Jasmine in it. Jasmine absolute is too expensive and there’s just no way it will end up in a shampoo. A high – end perfume, sure, but not a shampoo. So, I said, “Let’s look at the label,” because I knew the company would have to list some ingredients that might be considered allergenic. Immediately, I noticed several ingredients that constitute a Jasmine fragrance. But when selling a shampoo, ‘Jasmine’ sells, Benzyl Acetate and Hedione do not.

    The Conceptualization of a Perfume

    A summer cottage

    I think this is among the things I love about creating a perfume. The research and work that goes on, long before I even start putting together the aromatic materials I may consider using. This is what in perfumery is considered a Perfumer Brief, which I cover in the Creating A Perfume page on my site. One begins with the idea of the perfume. A Summer Cottage can be a starting point. From there, one can visualize an ivy – covered cottage (ivy, greens), rolling hills (summer grasses and new – mown hay), flower meadows (white flowers and wild flowers), a pathway through the forest (moss, woods, leaves) and bees buzzing about (beeswax and clover). Just in that short description you can put together at least 20 or more aromatic elements.

    Thinking Like a Perfumer

    This is what I term, ‘thinking like a perfumer.’ When you see a perfume supposedly composed of things like Blackberry, Peaches, Summer Grasses, Heather and Ocean Breeze, in your mind you quickly translate this as Calone, Hay Absolute, Aldehyde C – 14, Elemi, Cassis Base 345B, Beta Damascone… The possibilities are endless.

    Perfumery as an Art Form

    Perfumery is like music or painting. You begin with an idea and then choose the way to express it. With perfumery, you express emotionally through scent. You tell a story, paint a picture, share memories…all with